Klic-N-Print 3D Top Extruder Plate Modification

Potential Problems

The Stock Extruder Plate

This modification to my Klic-N-Print 3D is more of a way to head off potential problems than a fix for actual ones.

The stock top extruder plate that comes with the KNP 3D is two acrylic pieces that stack together. The filament tubes go into two shallow holes and there is nothing but a loose zip tie holding the wire bundle.

I several occasions, I saw that the tubes had pulled out of the holes. It never seemed to cause a problem with the filament feeding but I felt the potential for the filament to break was greater when the tubes were loose.

I also worried that the wires were moving around too much that that one would break from the flexing.

Finding A Better Plate

​I searched Thingiverse for a different top plate and located this one (Thingiverse Thing 1200876) that was designed for a FlashForge Creator Pro printer. From past experience, I know that many of the parts in the KNP 3D are the same as the FlashForge so I printed one to try it. Lucky, it is a perfect fit.

You could use ABS for this but mine is PLA. You can put your finger on the top of the extruder unit while the printer is running so it does not get very hot.

Extruder Plate for KNP 3D

​To install the new one, just clip the zip tie holding the wire bundle to the back screw and remove both screws. Save the washers for the new plate but swap them. The large washer wont fit on the back screw with the new plate because the wire tower is too close.

Carefully separate the wires from the fan motors and slide the old extuder plates out. Is isn't necessary to disconnect anything. Slide the new plate into place and reinstall the screws. You might have to move the plate a round a little to get the screws back into their holes. Once they are aligned, tighten them down.

Use a new zip tie to secure the wire bundle to the tower and that's it. I went a step further and wraped electrical tape around the bundle before the zip tie but that is probably overkill.

New Extruder Top Plate

The filament tubes seem a lot more solid with this plate than with the original.

I don't claim that this mod is necessary but, I feel better having the wires and tubes firmly attached.

Update January 27, 2017

I have been happy with the top plate described here but, I found one I like even more. See the comment from longjohn below and the new blog post here.

Your Comments and questions are welcome. Please share your tips and mods with all of us.

Tom

  • longjohn says:

    You may want to check this one out, it hides the wiring and looks bad a__ …..

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1396391

    I ended up placing mine on my main computer desk ( 8ft long) and there is a shelf about 6″ above it so I ditched the tubes altogether and have a couple of spool holders on the shelf above it so it feeds directly down into the extruder. It made fast moves a lot smoother and eliminated some ‘ringing’ (echo or whatever you want to call it) I also added a PLA print cooling fan with a PWM speed controller mounted in a little slant front box that slides under the unit. I have to run it manually but it doesn’t void the warranty and can be removed (mostly wires and a fan mount) without leaving a trace …… That extruder cap, the mount for the fan and the bed extenders for the glass is all I really had to do to it. Since I can close it up it’s my main ABS printer and I use the Pegasus mainly for PLA. With twin print cooling fans, PID controlled SSR on the heat bed and inductive ABL that thing is a PLA monster.

    • Tom Clough says:

      I do like the looks of that shroud John. I will print one up when I get a little time.

      I am still using a clip on fan. I would like something more elegant but the clip on does work OK.

      I hate to admit it but I have been neglecting my Pegasus since I got the KNP. I really have to get back to tweaking that one. It is a great printer too.

      Tom

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