I wanted the 8"X10" glass sheet to increase the area of the print bed but, because of the large binder clips I had to use to hold the glass on, it actually made the usable area smaller. What I needed was corner supports that would extend past the bed and allow me to use more of the surface.
I searched on Thingiverse and found many corners for glass beds. None of them were exactly what I needed though. The closest I found was Thing 664166. I actually though that one might work so I printed one corner to try it out..
It was close but the bed thickness wasn't right. Still, it was enough of a match that I thought a little tweaking with Customizer would make it perfect.
This was my first attempt at using Customizer but it really is easy when you have a good model to start with.
I measured the bed thickness of the Klic-N-Print at 6.7mm, including the Kapton, and entered that into the form. Since I had only tried one corner, I wasn't sure about the other numbers so I checked all of them too.
The bed size of the KNP was a little different than the original piece from Thingiverse. I entered the X and Y dimensions for that in too. The glass size was OK. I measured the screw and nut and they seemed to be right although I did have to change the nut diameter later.
I saved the new files and printed a single corner with PLA as a test.
The new version fit pretty well except I could not get the nut into the hole. The measurement seemed right but there must have been a little expansion of the PLA.
I increased the nut size to 5.6mm and tried again. This time the nut fit, tightly as it should, and everything looked good. Depending on your printer and the filament you use, you might have to adjust this in Customizer or just scrape the edges of the hole to make the nut fit.
Here are the Customizer settings I used:
I saved the final version as Thing 1837245. If you want to print your own corners you can download the files from that link.
PLA is easy to print so I used it for my first trial pieces. It isn't very good for use at high temperatures though. Once I had my PLA tests working, I printed final versions of the left and right corners using ABS. I
It takes two of each for a full set of corners. The left ones go on the left front and right rear corners while the right ones are for right front and left rear.
t takes two of each for a full set of corners. The left ones go on the left front and right rear corners while the right ones are for right front and left rear.
When the prints were done, I broke off the support material, which came off very cleanly. I used a small screwdriver to push the excess material out of the hole.
Next, I removed the corner bolts and nuts and used them to attach the new supports. I was worried that the bolts would be too short but, it turns out that they are just long enough.
I placed my glass sheet on the bed and clipped it in place with small binder clips. No more big clunky clips needed!
Using the corner supports makes a very clean installation of the removable glass sheets. It is easy to remove them for cleaning and, by have a few pieces of glass on hand, it is easy to switch bed covering materials.
That wraps up the discussion of my removable glass bed modification for the Klic-N-Print 3D.
This is an easy project that really adds a lot to the flexibility of this great 3D printer. By using cheap picture frame glass, it is also an inexpensive modification.
This picture shows a sheet of glass coated with hairspray on the bed. Sheets with glue and paiter's tape are ready to go.
I am sure this isn't the last time I will write about the project. I will be making good use of the flexibility it gives me to try new materials and temperature settings. For one thing, I am looking forward to using stick glue on a cold bed as I did with the Pegasus.
I hope you enjoyed this post. Your comments and questions are always welcome. Let us know how this project works out for you and about other mods you might be making to your printer.
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